ZOTOS PROFESSIONAL BLOG

 

How the Color Wheel Relates to Haircolor

 

The color wheel is the most important tool in the hair color arsenal.

 

Something I may have chosen not to remember this weekend as I colored my Mom’s hair.

 

Anyone who knows my Mom understands that she has only two concerns with her color… Cover the gray and do it even quicker than you did last time.

 

I blame this artistically draining, bar-lowering list of requirements on my reaching for a blue-tinged-toner for her brassy yellow hair. As I was applying the toner and began seeing the mossy, greenish blonde develop before my eyes I thought of that most basic thing we all learned about in elementary school.

 

The color wheel.

Blue over yellow creates green.

 

Maybe I should have dug a little deeper into my color cabinet for a violet based toner. The color wheel is instrumental in guiding us through how colors react to one another. Understanding how to use is vital to hair color success stories.

 

Need to fix a brassy blonde? Got a red that has hot roots? A brunette that won’t lighten without tons of unwanted warmth? All of your answers can be found in the color wheel.

 

The color wheel has three primary colors, yellow, red and blue. Combining these colors with their neighboring tone will create the three secondary colors.

 

Now look at what happens when you mix opposite colors… red and green, blue and orange, violet and yellow all negate one another and create a neutral brownish / tan shade.

 

This very basic breakdown is your best friend in executing perfect hair color results.

I am going to walk you through some of the most common color struggles.

Lucky for us AGEbeautiful has a comprehensive palette of products to deliver perfect results every time.

Keeping it simple is key as we don’t want to reinvent the wheel!

 

BANISHING BRASSY BLONDES

Every colorist has dealt with blondes that have turned that unfortunate yellow tinge. Let’s put that wheel to work and we can see that if we want to negate yellow, we simply reach across to the opposing color and get violet.

By using AGEbeautiful’s TopCoat Toner in beige we add a kiss of soft rosy violet to a yellow hued blonde.

 

UNWANTED WARMTH ON A BRUNETTE

Brown hair is constantly pulling unwanted reddish tones.  The trick is to understand which warmth you’re dealing with.  If it’s orange, you’re going to need blue.  If it’s red, you’re going to have more luck using a green based color.

Using AGEbeautiful 4B Demi Permanent with Clear Shine will give you the perfect blue to negate an intense orange copper.

 

GOING LIGHTER WHILE CONTROLLING WARMTH

So often we see darker shades of hair that have been lightened and are left with garish unwanted warmth. First determine which tone needs to be managed.  A lightened dark brunette / black will have red that will benefit from using green as you lighten.  A medium brunette will require blue to control the orange tones that will appear as you lighten.

Lightening this medium brunette using a blue based permanent color like AGEbeautiful 5A will give you refined, sable brunette results.

 

COMBINING TONES TO CREATE UNIQUE RESULTS

Once you’ve mastered the basics of color theory you can start tweaking which products you reach for and begin customizing one of kind formulations.

 

Some of my favorite formulas I have been marrying together this season are…

 

PEARL BLONDE

2oz AGEbeautiful Ultra Bond Hyper Lift Violet Blonde & drop of AGEbeautiful 4V Permanent Color with 40Volume

This is perfect for a level 7 blonde that wants a pearlescent, violet nuanced blonde.

  

SPICY CINNAMON BRONDE

1oz AGEbeautiful 8WB Permanent Color & 1/2oz AGEbeautiful 9RC Permanent Color with 20Volume

A sophisticated bronde that has tons of reflective warmth, shine and sizzle.

 

ARCTIC BRUNETTE

2oz AGEbeautiful HighLift Ash Permanent Color & 1/4oz AGEbeautiful 6A Permanent Color with 20Volume

This is the formula for a medium to dark brown that wants ZERO red in their hair.  The blue-green base of the HighLift Ash will ensure crisp, cool, not-a-trace-of-red results.

 

HOT ROOT WARM RED

1 1/2oz AGEbeautiful 3B Demi Permanent Color & 1/2oz AGEbeautiful Clear Shine Demi Permanent Color with Demi Developer

This blue based formula is effective when applied to roots that have developed too vibrant and warm.

 

The color wheel provides limitless options for every type of hair coloring service.

Being fluent in this will become the fundamental foundation of all successful techniques, formulations and executions.  I know you’re going to love exploring the wonderful world of AGEbeautiful and its professional line of products and can’t wait to see your results!

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